We Didn't Know We Were Moving to One of Colorado's Greatest Base Camps

What to Do in the Montrose Area

Montrose, CO Photo by Wendy Stieg

We moved to Montrose because we needed at least one of us to have a job. We weren't thinking about much else as we packed up and left Cortez. One thing that keeps happening, however, is that we seem to like Montrose better and better. Which is kind of funny coming from someone who grew up on Colorado's Front Range in Boulder. And spent time in Hawaii. And Idaho. And Montana. And Nebraska. And Summit, Eagle, and Lake Counties in Colorado. Just to name a few. 

The town slogan is Stay Here. Play Everywhere. We heard that, but did not realize how much is actually available within two hours of our front door. In the past month alone, I have kept a brief journal on our activities. We have spent time in nature, listened to live music, and explored nearby mountain towns. We have finally figured out what our winter is shaping up to be like, and have discovered what is Good-to-Know about living here.

On top of that, we have decided which ski pass to buy. Probably the most important item on our list. Not every adventure involved hiking, though.

A vertical world. Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Photo by Wendy Stieg

Nature

One thing I have realized about Paul and me is that we are both adventurous, and then also sometimes really bad at doing things right here on our doorstep. For example, we never did get to Mesa Verde, even though it was fifteen minutes from our home in Cortez. I went to Mesa Verde with my family as a child, but have not been back since. Neither Paul nor I had been to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, so we were determined to get to see it. Black Canyon of the Gunnison is truly spectacular. I did feel genuine vertigo, so there’s also the thrill factor. There is a reason why we met so many international travelers. 

Town of Ouray, taken from the Perimeter Trail. Photo by Wendy Stieg

We have also made it a point to get out and hike regularly, and have done the Perimeter Trail in Ouray a few times, as well as regular forays into Buzzard Gulch, a combination of mountain bike trails and hiking trails found west of Montrose. All three are really great Colorado activities, and easy to find. I have to mention Zenzen Gardens, a glamping spot on an old ranch in Paonia. We stayed there when we went to see Young and Dead at Stealy’s in downtown Paonia. We reserved a spot at Zenzen Gardens, and Gibby was welcome. This was the first time I had gone glamping, and I highly recommend it. 

Glamping with Gibby, Zenzen Gardens in Paonia, CO. Photo by Wendy Stieg

Live Music

I had heard the local buzz around Young and Dead, and also Dogs in a Pile. Young and Dead is a group of musicians in their early 20s, who focus on Grateful Dead music and are exceptionally talented. We had a great time at Stealy’s in Paonia, and met some very cool people. Dogs in a Pile is definitely in the Jam Band genre, but did mostly their own tunes. They were very good. We saw them in Ridgway, not far from our house. We did run into a few people we knew, and had an amazing time. We felt right at home seeing live music in Ridgway. On our way into town, we called in an order of tacos to Tacos del Gnar in Ridgway just before the show. I highly recommend them any time you need a taco. 

Dogs in a Pile, Ridgway Music Scene. Photo by Wendy Stieg

Our disappointment: We missed Black Uhuru and the Sam Grisman Project also in Hartwell Park in Ridgway. We will pay far better attention to musicians in the area as time goes by. 

Good to Know

Our most important Good-to-Know came from Paul taking a hard fall off of his mountain bike, smashing his wrist into a pile of rocks. Finding a hospital fast and finding out later that the hospital was great did turn out to be a Good-to-Know.  While he didn't need it, they do have a Flight-For-Life helicopter that lives on the roof and ventures out and back regularly. This is definitely a Good-to-Know. Because Paul.

Wondering how to cope with different travel styles? How to Travel Without Killing Your Partner is for you!

Finally, it is also Good-to-Know that it’s not too hard to get to Vail where the Steadman Clinic is. It is a lot closer than it was from Cortez. It is Good-to-Know, too, that they are there. But you are not getting out of there without trading a kidney or an eye to get the cash you need to pay for the broken wrist. I made that part up, but it is pretty expensive. 

Good-to-Know: Hospital and Flight for Life are right down the street from our house. Photo by Wendy Stieg

Mountain Towns

We love the mountains in Colorado. There are many mountain towns and each one has its own personality. Ouray, also known as “Little Switzerland,” is one of the most beautiful spots in Colorado. Just beyond Ouray is Silverton, home to Silverton Mountain, an expert-only ski area where it's best to go with a guide. There is also the Silverton to Durango Narrow Gauge Railway, a historic and scenic way to get from Silverton to Durango. Or you can race the train on your bike if you wish. Race the Train is usually on Saturday during Memorial Day Weekend.  

Paul and Wendy, on the Other Side of the Ice Park, Ouray, CO. Photo by Wendy Stieg

Also close by are Ridgway and Telluride. We entertained moving to Ridgway for long enough to realize we would have to sell another kidney to be able to afford Ridgway. I think I am out of kidneys. Telluride is great for skiing, but we’d never be able to afford anything there. But we love skiing there. We lived in Summit/Eagle/Lake counties, and are grateful we are within three or so hours from our front door. Which is great because I have dear friends in all three counties. Periodically, I do miss living there. I am really glad to be in Montrose, however, because it truly is a great place to be. 

Telluride definitely has a magic all its own. We spent several days skiing there last ski season. Telluride gives a day-in-the-life description of one of Colorado’s greatest mountains.

What’s Coming Up?

JRAD in Vail and Dillon: Joe Russo’s Almost Dead will be playing at the Ford Amphitheater in Vail on August 21st, and at the Dillon Amphitheater on the 22nd of August. Our friend, Laura, will be meeting us; she is flying into the Eagle County Airport, and we will be picking her up on August 20th. We will spend a couple of nights in Vail and a night in Dillon. Can’t wait for that! We have seen a lot of music with Laura and are looking forward to spending some time with her!

JRAD in Georgia. Paul, Laura and Wendy, we meet each other again in Vail and Dillon soon! Photo by Wendy Stieg

Winter is a big deal for us: Paul and I met in the winter of 2013, and skied our way into our current relationship. We both love skiing, and got shorted last year by what turned out to be the lowest mountain snowpack in Colorado's recorded history. But we are thinking positively for this upcoming ski season, and have finally decided to get the Epic Pass. For us, that means we can ski Telluride and Crested Butte, as well as Vail and Beaver Creek. 

We know it’s a big expense every year, but we save up for it, and we are ready to get that pass. We were able to ski Telluride from Cortez as well, but we are closer from Montrose. Another area not on the Epic Pass is Silverton, which is an area we both want to check out. Some areas are accessed through lifts, but getting a guide is the way to go, and have your avalanche gear as well as a new beacon, probe, and shovel.

Explore more Hot Springs: Paul has already bought a punch pass for Orvis Hot Springs. The other Hot Springs, which we have not yet experienced, is the Ouray Hot Springs. We definitely love Hot Springs, and have been to quite a few in Colorado. I think we will wait until the weather gets colder to take advantage of these nearby facilities.

We rated our favorite Colorado hot springs: Top Ten Hot Springs in Colorado is your guide!

The Desert: Moab is about 2 hours and 45 minutes to 3 hours west of Montrose. There are two great ways to get there. The first takes you through Delta and Grand Junction before joining I-70 west. At Cisco, you head south and continue straight into Moab. It's the fastest route and gets you there in about three hours.

First Moab Trip. Photo by Chris McKeever

The second route is for when you're in the mood for an adventure. You travel south through Naturita, continue west to Nucla, and then into Paradox Valley before crossing into Utah. This is a very empty part of Colorado, but it is also incredibly beautiful. It may take a little longer, but the scenery is part of the adventure and, in my opinion, it's the more memorable drive.

If I Were You...

A word of caution. Don't move here. Seriously. You'd hate it. There's absolutely nothing to do. No incredible hiking. No mountain towns just down the road. No live music. No national park in your backyard. No world-class skiing within an hour. No sunsets that make you pull your car over just to stare. This part of Colorado is boring.

If you do decide to come here, then you should definitely just visit.

I am, of course, kidding, but I'm also not trying to convince everyone they should move here. Living in the mountains isn't for everyone. It can be harder to find a high-paying job, affordable housing isn't always easy to come by, and mountain living comes with its own set of challenges. But Montrose is probably one of the last places in Colorado where homeownership still feels within reach for many people.

Our Chocolate Lab Gibby gets in on the blogging action and wrote an article about his favorite lakes. Gibby’s Top Ten Lakes in the American West (but Mostly Colorado), written by Gibby!

We love it here and are glad we made the move, but we're also seasoned mountain people. We've spent years acclimating not just to the altitude, but to the realities of mountain living, from long winter drives to changing weather and planning ahead for just about everything.

So yes, definitely visit. Explore Montrose. Wander the Black Canyon. Hike around Ouray. Soak in the hot springs. Catch a concert in Ridgway or Paonia. Ski the San Juans. Then keep going. Visit Dinosaur National Monument, the Grand Canyon, the Four Corners region, or anywhere else the American West calls you. We started falling in love with Montrose when we first moved into our 1948 bungalow. But last weekend, listening to Dogs in a Pile sealed the deal. The adventures are endless, and Montrose just happens to be one of the best places to begin them. 

Paul found this sweet ride for me in Paonia. Photo by Wendy Stieg

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